Running Based Training for the Alpine part 1 (some thoughts)

So let me start this by saying that although I am not very experienced or accomplished as a climber yet, I do move pretty fast in the mountains. I've spent plenty of time in the mountains, so that counts for something, but I think it mostly stems from 10+ years spent as a competitive distance runner. It's not that I'm in amazing shape, I'm actually not relative to five years ago, but I have lots of experience preparing my body to do something specific. I've read a lot on the subject of running training, I have an educational background in human biology and physiology, and I've experimented on myself for several years so I feel like I have some ideas worth sharing.

Despite the fact that all human powered alpine sports are primarily limited by how fast and far you can go, especially uphill, it seems like few participants take time to get fit for this. I hear a lot of climbers, mountaineers and backcountry skiers talking about running for this purpose, but I see few of them following through. It makes sense that if you want to ________(insert sport here) you spend all your free time doing that sport and not running, but unless you are a total dirtbag you can't get out in the mountains every day. In this post I'm not going to give you some generic 10 week program that you have to do everyday. Instead I'm going to try and give you a basic framework, rules of thumb if you will. This way, on those days when you are too busy to go somewhere cool, you can still do something that prepares you to do more on your next day (or week) out in the mountains.

 Some Myth Busters:
1. Your workout doesn't need to be painful or even hard (in fact, it probably shouldn't be) to have a big benefit. A good athletic performance is when the muscles you need work maximally, while the ones you don't stay totally relaxed... in other words, grimacing and straining just waste energy.
2. Your workout doesn't need to be long to help you (even a 30 minute run can be effective training stimulus). If you are spending a full day or two out in the mountains every week then you are getting plenty of endurance. Trying to do long runs (90+ min) too is just going to make you tired and train you to move slowly.

Celebrating after crushing the round trip time on the Mirador Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia. This was fairly easy for me after a 6 month season of collegiate cross-country training.

Some Key Concepts:
1. Recovery is the most important part of training. If you don't recover then everything you did only took away from your ability to perform. This doesn't just mean sleeping and eating, an easy aerobic workout followed by stretching is one of the most important things you can do to recover.
2. Everyone is different. Besides having different strengths and weaknesses, you will respond differently to different workouts and recover at different rates than other people. Listen to your body!
3. Everyone knows that they need to practice and train to get better. The hard part is figuring out what your weaknesses are and figuring out how to fix them.
4. Conversely, know your strengths and exploit them. This will help you optimize your performance, whether its deciding how to break up lead blocks or where to take rests.

Setting out to run to the Mirador Las Torres beneath the Torres del Paine in Patagonia.

Mirador Las Torres, 12+ miles round trip and 4,000+ ft net elevation gain in 1:38.

In our sport we don't always know when we are going and what we are going to do. It could dump powder tomorrow and you could be trying to ski as many lines as possible Saturday morning, or the weather could suddenly clear and you could be cragging all weekend. You need to be flexible: always fit but never too tired. This is a hard balance to strike and luckily the seasons provide a little predictability. If you know you aren't going to be doing a big trip or trying major objectives on the weekend then you can push a little harder on your non-mountain training days. Ideally you have a good fitness base so that when your season arrives or that big trip comes up you can back off on the day-to-day training and have a big energy reserve.

Facts and Figures:
1. It takes 10-14 days for your body to generate improvements from an intense workout, so don't hammer your workout 5 days before you try the hardest route of your life. As you approach a big trip don't be afraid to keep going down the list but keep the overall stress level low and leave plenty of easy days.
2. It takes 3-4 weeks for your body to adapt to a constant stress. If you have ran a lot previously you will notice it gets easier after week 1 as your brain rediscovers neurological pathways and you become more efficient. Avoid the temptation to step it up. By the end of week 2 you will feel tired, even if you were doing other training before starting a new program. If you listen to your body and keep running then by the end of week 4 you should feel good (if you don't you over trained). Now its time to kick it up a notch.
3. It takes 6 weeks to create actual muscle changes. If you are doing a strength program, or mixing strength and running, keep the strength stress consistent for 6 weeks before upping the ante or moving on to a different focus. I like to mix strength with running as part of my warm-up or cool-down but it is hard to do both at a high level. You need to pick a focus.

Eating cheese baguets while traversing a dry glacier during a 47km/8hr off trail hike outside of Chalten, Patagonia. I had 2 days in Chalten followed by 2 days on a bus so I pushed myself hard while I could.

Remember you are a unique organism, not a machine! Don't force your body to perform until you know how it will respond. Start an activity log and write a brief summary of what you did and how you felt each day. You will start to see patterns and this will help you to understand how your body responds to training. Personally, I can hammer myself 2-3 days in a row before needing at least 2 easy days, anymore and my body is too trashed to keep up consistent training. Other people will see different patterns.

I wanted to do one post on running and training but it turned into a freaking text book, so I'm breaking it up into two parts. In my next post I'll provide some more specifics on what you can focus on during each running based workout.

Sending the Project: Alpine 5.1 on Mt. Washington

Yeah, that's right. I sent it. It took me two whole attempts (read about the first one here), I was that committed to this proj. In fact, not only did I get the redpoint, but I did it solo. Obviously this takes down James Lucas' claim as the only living redpoint soloist (well actually this isn't comparable at all but just let me revel in glory for a minute).

Mt. Washington from the PCT trailhead after I got back to the car at 1pm. The North Ridge descends toward the viewer, the rock section follows the left hand skyline of the summit pinnacle.

Three Fingered Jack (L) and Mt. Jefferson (R) while approaching Mt. Washington.

On this attempt several things were different. There was practically no wind. It was a clear, sunny day. The temperature was probably 50 degrees warmer than the first time. I had awesome custom approach shoes (thanks to the Gear Fix) instead of ice climbing boots. I also had two tools in case there was some steep neve.

Custom approach shoes (lightweight Merrell hiking shoes with dot rubber soles), with BD strap-on crampons.

However, some things were the same. There were still huge drifts of snow. The climbers trail was totally hidden and I missed it again, ending up on the West Ridge again. Navigating in thick trees was difficult and time consuming.

Coming off the West Ridge and making my way toward the North Ridge (L skyline).

I camped near the PCT trailhead the night before. I slept through my alarm and was woken by sun at 5:30. I left the car at 6am. Once I was on the West Ridge I traversed its steep north flank to the bowl between the North and West Ridges. From here I climbed up the bowl, directly to where the North Ridge meets the summit pinnacle. The sun was coming on to the snow and ice chunks were rolling down. I followed saplings and boulders, trying to avoid the line of fire.

Heading toward the NW bowl and the North Ridge.

Looking up the NW bowl toward the summit pinnacle.

Cruising up 40 degree neve in the custom tennies. Sun starting to hit the face.

When I reached the base of the pinnacle I broke out the rock gear and harness. From the snow ridge I moved up a left leaning snow ramp which traversed over the exposed East Face. The rock climbing started here and was broken up with snow covered ledges. This east facing snow was soft from the sun so I backed down the ramp and stowed my crampons and ice axes. I kick stepped back up and started climbing rock. It was definitely chossy but there were solid holds to be found. The snow was scary but easy. The hardest part was negotiating shaded alcoves with ice still covering the best rock holds.

Looking up at the summit pinnacle from just below the North Ridge.

The left leaning snow ramps takes you to the start of the rock climbing.

Looking down the steep and exposed East Face. Falling would not be good.

The top came suddenly and had amazing views of the Sisters to the south. I loitered, taking photos and rehydrating for several minutes before descending. I rappelled off the first slung horn, removing some old tat and trusting a very new looking piece of cord that was already there. I then down climbed to the last slung horn. I removed a couple pieces of faded tat here too, then rapped back to the snow ramp.

Looking down the North Ridge from a snow field part way up the summit pinnacle.

(L-R) Broken Top, North Sister, Middle Sister from the summit of Mt. Washington.

Setting up the first rappel. I backed it up with a prusik as I was using a thin 8mm half rope (30m).

I had seen from above that the North Ridge went almost to the burn where the trailhead was. Wanting to try find the actual climbers trail I followed the ridge. I was soon following a boot pack and was confused when it dead ended on a small pinnacle. As I turned and looked back I saw beautiful ski tracks diving off the ridge and down the East Face. Kudos to the skiers who have been slaying the gnar out there recently.

Looking back at the upper North Ridge and the summit pinnacle.

See those ski tracks? Someone shredded the gnar.

Eventually I hit a cairn and started following switchbacks off the ridge. Within 100 feet the trail was covered in snow and I lost it. I guess it really doesn't want to be found this time of year. I trended north and west, eventually reaching the burn. I hit the PCT soon after. A short walk later I was back at the car. It was 1pm. I stretched and sorted my gear before driving home for a late lunch and a swim in the Deschutes River.

Mt. Washington's East Face from the highway on the drive home. North Ridge is the right hand skyline. The rock section of the route ascends the middle of the summit pinnacle.

How to make 5.1 "fun," an attempt on Mt. Washington

Edward and I set out to climb the North Ridge on Mt. Washington Wednesday. The weather was supposed to be awful and it was. We went anyway because, in our own twisted minds, "we had nothing better to do." I was going to write an essay about it entitled "how to make 5.1 climbing fun" since I saw somewhere that that was the rating. The thesis was that if you pick a chossy, exposed route, and try to climb it in a white-out with 50mph winds, it would be more "fun." Unfortunately that white-out led to us ascending the wrong ridge and then being faced with a steep ice traverse in the 50mph winds. We hadn't really planned on climbing ice and only had one axe each, not to mention we couldn't really see anything. Thus we retreated and my thesis went untested.

As we descended our tracks had already filled in with snow and soon we were simply following a vague compass bearing. An hour and a half later we were in tangles of fir saplings and realized we must have crossed the PCT without realizing it. We started bushwhacking north and a couple hours later we entered an old burn. Soon after we stumbled upon the PCT. We thought we were really close to the car at this point but apparently we had been moving very slowly. The trail wound on forever and we started to suspect that we were caught in a time-space vortex: THE MOUNT WASHINGTON TRIANGLE (cue Twilight Zone theme music). Would we ever reach the end of the trail? I sure as heck didn't remember half of the trees we passed, but then again every tree looked exactly the same. We eventually hit the car and made jokes about projecting 5.1. We've almost got the beta down, now the only question is whether or not we wait for another blizzard.

This doesn't look bad at all. We are still on the PCT right?

Coming up the West Ridge which we still think is the North Ridge. My mountain sense is tingling!

The weather is getting more and more "funner" by the minute.

Brew stop. Stomp those feet.

It's a mountain mother clucker! Do you see it?!

Retreat! Reatreat! Oh that's what it looked like? I couldn't tell through my iced up goggles.

Shasta Revisited: Casaval Ridge w/ Avy Gulch ski descent

After a six day backcountry ski trip and a day of rock climbing I was... how do you say? Bushed? Wei, I sink so! But you know, like, when in Rome and all that good shit. So since I had to drive right by Mt. Shasta with all my ski gear and because I could... really just because I could, I mean there was absolutely no enjoyment in it at this point, just pure ego. But regardless of why, all that matters now is that I did, and it was actually mildly enjoyable. I even had fun for a few minutes. And all it really takes is a few minutes plus your ego reveling in your ability to crush and "ta-da!" All I remember now is how awesome it was. "Yeah, I am awesome. So cool. Everyone probably wants to be me. Rock and Ice or Powder Magazine should do a feature on me because I'm so great..." I'm off in dream land while my body slowly processes mitochondrial waste products from its thorough thrashing and tries to figure out how to rebuild all that atrophied muscle. Anyway, Rock and Ice isn't going to interview me because it actually wasn't very cool and I'm really pretty pathetic so I'm going to write it up myself... you know, keep stroking that ego!

Mount Shasta from Mount Shasta. Casaval Ridge descends towards the viewer.

So I arrived at the Bunny Flat Trailhead the day before, just after soloing Cosmic Wall and having grabbed some food in Mt. Shasta (the town). I didn't have much water because I only had two liter bottles. They were less than a liter each actually. I planned to melt some snow at the trailhead but naively underestimated the traffic this place gets, even in winter. I set up my tent on the asphault next to the car and started digging in the snow bank for clean snow. I got down to some good looking stuff and fired up the stove. After an hour of work melting about 3 liters of water I was at a loss. Everything tasted nasty, like ski wax, road salt and squirrel pee. I threw the water out and was trying to figure out what to do when a car pulls up. No one gets out. It just sits there facing the mountain which is alight with alpenglow from the already-set sun. Then this weird new-age trance music starts to play. This seems somewhat normal. Mt. Shasta (the town) is full of mystical crystal shops and new-age meditation centers. Some people believe the mountain is one of the seven shakras which is... well I'm not really sure. Anyway, I'm trying to decide whether to melt more snow or drive all the way down to town to buy more water. The last light fades on the mountain, I really need to get to bed if I'm going to do this. The new-age car pulls out and turns around. I raise my hand half-heartedly to get their attention. The car stops and the window rolls down, an older couple occupies the front seats.

"You guys don't happen to have any water do you? I'm almost out and the snow has this awful chemical taste."

"Sure we do!" says the guy. While he rummages in the trunk the lady asks me what I'm doing. "Climbing the Mountain? Wow!" Then the man hands me a full 1.5L bottle and refuses anything in exchange. If he was looking for good karma he can have all he wants. Sending good vibes your way man! You are awesome!

Approaching Casaval Ridge that morning.

On the lower section of the Casaval.

I slept like a baby and left the car at 6:30am. Skinned over to Casaval Ridge and started the actual climbing. At first I was a little disappointed. The ridge is a line of decaying rock towers (typical of the Cascade volcanoes) and there is no way to climb them so I was just traversing the snow field next to them. Then things started to get steeper, more exposed. Every time I thought it was going to cliff out there was a notch letting you traverse to the other side of the ridge. Two short sections of 50ish degree snow even made it feel like climbing. Where the terrain section ended (~12,500ft?) I started to bonk. I would take two steps and feel completely exhausted. I forced myself to find a manageable pace and keep moving, but it didn't last for long. The last eight days were finally catching up to me. I bonked numerous times before the bottom of Misery Hill. When I got there the hill was completely exposed scree. Realizing that I would not be able to ski from the summit, I ditched my skis there.

Heading up...

Looking down...

I got to the summit at 1pm and thought I would be the only one there that day, but I turned around to see two telemarkers from Bozeman coming up from the Hotlum-Wintun. We chatted briefly and I snapped some pictures before cruising back down to my skis. I had planned to ski the West Face but it looked so bare I just headed straight down Avalanche Gulch. The ski run was less than exceptional, thick mashed potatoes. I arrived at the car just before 3pm. By 3:30 I was in Mt. Shasta getting a snack for the drive home.

The uber-deluxe Shasta summit registry.

Summit shot, courtesy of the Bozeman boys.

Time to ski!

Casaval Ridge on the left and Avy Gulch straight ahead, from the car.

Castle Crags - Cosmic Wall

Castle Crags is a little known wilderness area with granite rock climbing right off off I-5 in Northern California. Its pretty hard to find beta on the climbing there, but there are some bolts and rap anchors on the more popular routes. It's a 2.7 mile hike with 2,200ft of elevation gain to reach the end of the trail at the base of Castle Dome. The rest of the rock spires and domes lie west, further along the ridge. Bushwhacking through manzanita is necessary to reach most of the climbs. There is a lot of potential but most of the walls are pretty far back and would require an overnight stay to properly explore. It's also hard to find water and shade which doesn't help.

Castle Dome with Shasta behind it.

I had visited the Crags as a kid and heard about some of the good climbing latterly so I stopped on my way back from the Trinity Alps. The main route I had recommended to me was Cosmic Wall (5.6, 800ft), which ascends the east face of Mt. Hubris (aka The Ogre). It would have been nice to explore more but I was pretty tired from 6 days of backcountry skiing and wanted to try Shasta the next day so I limited myself to this climb and a scramble up Castle Dome.

Shasta and a view of the crags from Mt. Hubris.

Castle Dome from the summit of Mt. Hubris

Both routes were pretty easy, honestly the bushwhacking to Mt. Hubris was the hardest part. I was able to skip the crux on Cosmic because it is a traverse over to a belay ledge. Since I was soloing I could just go straight up. Protection looked potentially finicky but I didn't really consider it much. The holds were large jugs and sculpted granite fins and there were a ton of them. It was nice to climb on such solid rock as supposed to Smith Tuff. On the last pitch I did the arete variation which offers some nice exposure to the summit. Two raps brought me to a snow lump melting in the shade of the north col. From here some easy scrambling down the manzanita got me back to Castle Dome. After tagging the top of CD I headed back to the car and drove to Mt. Shasta.

On the summit of the Ogre.

Mt. Hubris aka the Ogre. Cosmic Wall starts at the bottom left and traverses up and right to the summit.

Mt. Hubris on the left, and the rest of the Crags from Castle Dome.

Some of the Crags west of Hubris... lots of stuff to climb.

Self-photo on top of Castle Dome, Shasta in the background.

Trinity Alps pt. 2

So besides avoiding eating spam (see pt. 1) you are probably wondering what I did for six days, right? Well here is a general schedule:

Day1: hike in (yay so much fun!)
Day2: Slay to the East (epic!)
Day3: Slay to the West (epic!)
Day4: Slay to the North (epic!)
Day5: Slay to the South (epic!)
Day6: Slay to the East again, because we just didn't slay enough the first time (also epic!)

So you are probably going to be like, "give us the beta Sam! Give us the beta! Show us where all the awesome lines are!" But I can't. I took a solemn oath to not reveal exact locations or share photos of the most awesome Coulis. "Why would you do such a thing Sam?" Because I can. And because myself, Joe, Brian, Ryan and Ryan want those first descents to ourselves, because we are selfish. But hold on folks, before you get your panties in a bunch, stop and think: does it really matter? I mean let's be honest here, you probably don't have what it takes. Ten mile hike in with all your gear just to get to the end of the trail, then the adventure is only beginning. Approaching, climbing and descending... do you really have the cahones to rail that pencil-thin line that drops 3,000 feet at 50 degress? Nope, probably not. "Well, you are probably just lying Sam, you dirty little liar!" And you are right I probably am lying: the Trinity Alps don't get that much snow, the terrain isn't that good, the lines all suck. You should keep telling yourself that. In fact, tell your friends too. "Never go to those dinky little mountains in California, there is a reason that no one goes there, they suck, totally worthless!" Besides, its such a long hike in that its not even worth checking out. You wouldn't want to waste your precious time, so why gamble?

Now that you realize how much better we are than you, watch this fun video...

Oh, and just because I'm a peak bagging braggart I'll show you these selected awesome photos of sending and summit top outs. Yes, you should feel honored...

Brian and Matz...

Sending...

...still sending.

Summit of Thompson with Shasta in the background.

Relaxing on Thompson... its easier to rock climb barefoot than in snow boots.

Boot pack up the ridge on Hilton.

The headwall we skied off the summit of Hilton.

Wedding Cake... rock climbing potential?

A nice lunch spot.