|Looking down from the top of pitch 2 on Skywalker. Wet slabs are fun!|
|Caitlin belays Chris up pitch 2.|
|Chris, up around the corner, leading pitch 3.|
|Anchor bolts at the top of pitch 3, right before the Skywalker Traverse on pitch 4.|
|Chris comes around the corner on the Skywalker Traverse.|
After Skywalker we climbed Klahanie Crack (5.7), a perfect splitter hand crack in blank slab surrounded by 5.11 sport routes that consist of being able to smear your way up a tilted parking lot of lichen speckled granite (not really what I call fun). We climbed some 10a slab-crack which felt pretty easy and TRed one of these 5.11s which was an exercise in frustration with my floppy multi-pitch shoes. So ended day one, it was light out so late that we cooked dinner at 9:30 and were convinced it was 7.
|Me leading Klahanie Crack (photo by Caitlin).|
|Yes, this is only 5.7, sustained 5.7, but still just 5.7 (photo by Caitlin).|
|Almost there on the Klahanie Crack (photo by Caitlin).|
On day two we went to the Apron. Our first choice was Diedre (6 pitch, 5.8) which is supposedly the most popular route at Squamish. There was practically no one on it. The three of us flew up the route, our rope system already dialed from the day before. We went car-to-car in about 4 hours, including stopping for lunch at the top of the route.
|Caitlin follows the polished slab on pitch 1 of Diedre.|
|Caitlin and Chris following pitch 3.|
|Caitlin follows pitch 4 on the endless slab dihedral.|
|Caitlin and Chris prepare to follow pitch 5.|
|Caitlin and I hang out at the pitch 5 anchors.|
|Lunch-time nap at the forested ledge atop Diedre.|
|Diedre follows the crack/dihedral in the lower right, Squamish Buttress rises above it.|
We then headed over to Exasperator (2 pitch, 5.10c). A recent issue of Rock and Ice referred to this as the "best 5.10 in the world." I'm not sure how you could ever say that about any climb, but it was definitely the most amazing 5.10 I have ever climbed in my short and undistinguished climbing career. Unfortunately two guys were "running laps" on pitch 1. I'm not sure how you could ever feel like this is an okay or polite practice on such a popular 2 pitch climb, even on a weekday evening. So we decided to get pizza and do it first thing the next morning.
|Squamish bouldering statue says, "stick your head up my finely chiseled backside Little Caesar!"|
|Starting up pitch 1 (5.10a) on Exasperator (all pics from this route taken by Caitlin).|
|Almost to the anchors on Exasperator pitch 1.|
|Chris leads through the crux on pitch 2 (5.10c).|
|Belaying Chris on pitch 2. Apron Strings is visible behind me.|
|Chris finds the perfect hand crack on the upper part of pitch 2.|
P.S. I did not crimp, full crimp, half crimp, lock-off on a crimp or make any semblance of a crimp during this whole climbing trip... so strange.
|Following Chris on Exasperator's second pitch.|
|The Chief shrouded in mist.|